Miryalguda, Saturday 11th October 2008
Today I was most privileged to experience something that not many western people do; a traditional Indian Hindu wedding ceremony. Having purchased a traditional Indian party frock the previous day, I was excitedly anticipating the day ahead and hoping I would look and be able to act the part. In the morning Venu took me to meet his wife and mother at the family home and also to the house of his friend Srinu. It was great to meet these people and be welcomed into their homes for a cup of chai (tea). There homes were modest and well kept. They seemed to be constructed of brick and concrete which is then rendered in earthly colours.
The wedding was at a multi-level function centre in the heart of the small city. The ceremony was held on the third level. Around 650 guests attended. I was the only westerner and one of the last to arrive. It is not impolite to stare in India, so as I entered the hall 650 pairs of eyes were trained on me. That was a strange experience and not the last one I would have for the day. In the hall all of the women sat to the left while the men were to the right. As the day went on the men and women began to mix together more.
The bride's name is Shilpa Jaini, and she is the sister of Naven Jaini, a guy with whom I work back in Australia. Hari is the bridegroom and he hails from Hyderabad.
Hindu weddings once lasted for up to 10 days but have subsequently been condensed to 2 or 3 days. The main ceremony on the first day runs for around 4 hours Unlike western Christian weddings which are a quiet affairs, where only those with official duties make any noise, the Hindu ceremony is very noisy. While the wedding rituals are being performed by the bride, bridegroom, pandit(priest)and various family and friends, the guests are free to do more or less as they please. One man was reading the paper!
So, while the ceremony went on I met dozens and dozens of people and posed for countless photographs. My presence at the wedding seemed to cause much excitement. As it turns out, it was equally an honour for the family that I attend the wedding as it was for me to be a guest. The fact that I made the effort to come was greatly appreciated. Also, I believe, part of the Hindu belief system is that strangers who are guests are to be treated with the utmost reverence. It felt like being a bit of a rock star at this wedding. Thankfully I have been known to comfortable as the centre of attention in a crowd in the past so I didn't find this to be difficult.
The ceremony consisted of several phases, with the tying of 3 knots symbolising the union (similar to the exchanging of rings). There were various rituals involving the bride and groom, many of which invled them showering each other in rice and flowers. Numerous blessings from family and friends, including one where most of the guest file past to bless the couple.
Prior to leaving Australia I purchased a few dozen pens and key rings with Australian motifs and small soft Kangaroo and Koala toys and the like. I tool these along to the wedding to give as gifts to the kids. Boy, were they a hit! I was king of the kids for the remainder of the day; so much so there was a trail of them behind me which was only broken when I went to the toilet (and only then at the insistence of their parents!) Once the toys ran out it was time for autographs (yes, autographs!). Not being truly famous, I couldn't come at just signing my name as it would have felt false, so I wrote individual messages to each child who asked for my autograph, wishing them the best greeting from Australia and signing off with my first name and a smiley face. This all took some time, but I felt I owed them the courtesy to give them my time. Plus, I must say, I do love spending time with children as they afford the opportunity to be child-life yourself. The kids and I laughed our heads off as they asked me to repeat little phrases in Telugu (the local language) which I performed with incredible ineptitude!
In India it is customary to ask direct personal questions, of which I fielded many over the course of the day. All sorts of questions about my country, customs, work life, and even my salary (which I declined to answer) were asked. When I told them my hobbies were singing and playing guitar I was asked to sing for them, and so I obliged. I sang some Beatles and Queen for them, plus a little faux-opera which they found to be quite unusual.
Once the main part of the ceremony came to a conclusion it was time for lunch to be served – for 850 people! (More people accepted invitations to the lunch part of the occasion that the ceremony). Lunch was served to 200 at time – a delicious Thali style vegetarian lunch served by the men-folk to people seated on one side of long trestle tables, again with women and men on opposite sides of the room and, this time, facing each other. You start with an empty plate and the servers file past and add things to it. As is customary in India, food is eaten with the right hand only. There is not a spoon or fork in sight. Ideally, each group of 200 completes their meal and then everyone stands up at the same time. It seems this is just for logistical purposes! I was in the last group to eat which meant I ate with the closest family member and friends of the bride and bridegroom.
One thing I noted, and is evidenced in the photographs I have taken of the marriage, is the extraordinary happiness the bride and bridegroom exhibit on the day. Working in the IT industry in Australia, I come across many Indian people and this has afforded me the opportunity to learn and understand more about Indian culture and, particularly, 'arranged' marriages. While the concept is foreign to western people, once you learn more about it you begin to understand that young men and women are mostly not railroaded into marriages irrespective of their own desires. It is just that the respective families are involved in the process of forming a 'marriage alliance' and traditional 'dating' is not undertaken by the young couple. Just looking at the joy on the faces of the bride and bridegroom satisfied me that they were completely happy to be betrothed and spend the rest of their days together.
After lunch I returned to the ceremony hall and was received by the bride and bridegroom. I had the opportunity to have a chat with them, present them with a wedding gift, thank them and wish them all the best for their future.
Speaking of their future, Hari works for Microsoft in Redmond, WA in the United States of America. In about a month Shilpa will move to the U.S. with him to start their new life together. The wedding experience has been a very emotional one for Naveen and Shilpa's parents. Naveen now lives in Australia and Shilpa will soon be moving to the States. The Jaini nest will be empty of children and this will be very sad for the Mr. and Mrs. Jaini. At the same time, having one's children take up residency overseas provides Indian parents with the pride and satisfaction that they have provided well for their children and they have become successful in their adult life. I'm sure the Mr. and Mrs. Jaini will gladly tell their friends and neighbours how well their children are progressing in life.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Friday, October 10, 2008
Security – A Stark Reminder
Hyderabad, Friday 10th October 2008
Around 12 months ago 45 people were killed in two bombings in Hyderabad. As a result there is a very strong focus on security in public places. Over the course of the day today on numerous occasions I was frisked, scanned for explosives, asked to pass though metal detectors, had my bag inspected or was asked to check it in while entering shops and malls. In a country where terrorist attacks have been common in the last three years (in total over 400 people have been killed in Jaipur, Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore and other cities) the levels of security are a stark reminder that one's safety should not be taken for granted. Having said that, India holds no fear for me in that regard. There innumerable ways with much higher probabilities that might take me from this earth.
Around 12 months ago 45 people were killed in two bombings in Hyderabad. As a result there is a very strong focus on security in public places. Over the course of the day today on numerous occasions I was frisked, scanned for explosives, asked to pass though metal detectors, had my bag inspected or was asked to check it in while entering shops and malls. In a country where terrorist attacks have been common in the last three years (in total over 400 people have been killed in Jaipur, Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore and other cities) the levels of security are a stark reminder that one's safety should not be taken for granted. Having said that, India holds no fear for me in that regard. There innumerable ways with much higher probabilities that might take me from this earth.
Baksheesh at the Intersection
Hyderabad, Friday 10th October 2008
Today I got a sample of how baksheesh works in India. For around 750 rupees (AU$25 dollars), plus petrol costs, you can hire a car and driver for the whole day. Venu had arranged for a driver to ferry us around Hyderabad as we went shopping. Although there is an apparent lack of road rules in India, there are intersections where traffic light signals should be observed. Our driver tried a last minute beat the red manoeuvre which didn't come off, leaving us stuck in the middle of a massive intersection blocking the traffic attempting to pass though on our left. One infuriated driver whop we blocked flew into road rage mode. The got out of his vehicle and approached ours. As our driver would down his window to discuss the matter the enraged chap feigned a punch through window. Police witness the incident and intervened. Our driver tried to talk his way out of it, but to no avail. The policeman confiscated his license on the spot (we are still sitting in the middle of the intersection and around a minute has gone by). Eventually we make it through to the other side and pull over. Venu and the driver tell me to wait while they go back to attempt to retrieve the licence. After an animated discussion with officer, 50 rupees exchange hands and the license is returned.
Today I got a sample of how baksheesh works in India. For around 750 rupees (AU$25 dollars), plus petrol costs, you can hire a car and driver for the whole day. Venu had arranged for a driver to ferry us around Hyderabad as we went shopping. Although there is an apparent lack of road rules in India, there are intersections where traffic light signals should be observed. Our driver tried a last minute beat the red manoeuvre which didn't come off, leaving us stuck in the middle of a massive intersection blocking the traffic attempting to pass though on our left. One infuriated driver whop we blocked flew into road rage mode. The got out of his vehicle and approached ours. As our driver would down his window to discuss the matter the enraged chap feigned a punch through window. Police witness the incident and intervened. Our driver tried to talk his way out of it, but to no avail. The policeman confiscated his license on the spot (we are still sitting in the middle of the intersection and around a minute has gone by). Eventually we make it through to the other side and pull over. Venu and the driver tell me to wait while they go back to attempt to retrieve the licence. After an animated discussion with officer, 50 rupees exchange hands and the license is returned.
Retail Nirvana – Clothes, "Party Wear" and Gifts
Hyderabad, Friday 10th October 2008
Those who know me well know I love to shop, especially for clothes. India is retail nirvana for me. There are plenty of markets, boutiques and department stores where all manner of goods can be purchased at around one third of the price one would pay in Australia. I have already been on a couple of shopping rampages over here and I dare say there will be more to come. Thankfully for me, Venu works in the rag trade and is a fashionable young chap, so I gleefully followed as he escorted me to various shops around Hyderabad. The main purchases of the day were a traditional outfit for me to wear to the wedding and a gift for the couple to be married. Venu picked up a few items for himself along the way. I really couldn't have asked for better companion and guide!
Those who know me well know I love to shop, especially for clothes. India is retail nirvana for me. There are plenty of markets, boutiques and department stores where all manner of goods can be purchased at around one third of the price one would pay in Australia. I have already been on a couple of shopping rampages over here and I dare say there will be more to come. Thankfully for me, Venu works in the rag trade and is a fashionable young chap, so I gleefully followed as he escorted me to various shops around Hyderabad. The main purchases of the day were a traditional outfit for me to wear to the wedding and a gift for the couple to be married. Venu picked up a few items for himself along the way. I really couldn't have asked for better companion and guide!
Food and Beverage - Hyderabadi Biryani
Hyderabad, Friday 10th October 2008
Venu took me to his favourite restaurant called "Paradise" in the heart of Hyderabad. His favourite dish is the Chicken Biryani they serve at Paradise. Biryani is made with Basmati rice, meat and/or vegetables, and all manner of spices. It is delicious!
Venu took me to his favourite restaurant called "Paradise" in the heart of Hyderabad. His favourite dish is the Chicken Biryani they serve at Paradise. Biryani is made with Basmati rice, meat and/or vegetables, and all manner of spices. It is delicious!
IT Training Mecca
Hyderabad, Friday 10th October 2008
Hyderabad is apparently the IT training capital of India. Venu took me to a district in the city where there appears to be dozens of schools and institutes where all manner of technologies can be studied. Some are accredited, many are not. The amount of billboards advertising courses is stunning!
Hyderabad is apparently the IT training capital of India. Venu took me to a district in the city where there appears to be dozens of schools and institutes where all manner of technologies can be studied. Some are accredited, many are not. The amount of billboards advertising courses is stunning!
Hyderabad and Miryalguda - Friday 10th October to Sunday 12th October 2008
Bangalore, Friday 10th October 2008
The next couple of days promise to be amongst the most interesting and exciting of the trip. Today I will fly from Bangalore to Hyderabad where I will be met by Venu, a good friend of Naveen Jaini, my work colleague from Melbourne. Naveen's sister Shilpaa is to be married in their home town of Miryalguda, approximately 140kms from Hyderabad. Knowing I was going to be in India during the wedding, Naveen very kindly invited me to attend the wedding. What an honour! Venu will look after me during my visit as Naveen will be busy attending to familial duties.
The next couple of days promise to be amongst the most interesting and exciting of the trip. Today I will fly from Bangalore to Hyderabad where I will be met by Venu, a good friend of Naveen Jaini, my work colleague from Melbourne. Naveen's sister Shilpaa is to be married in their home town of Miryalguda, approximately 140kms from Hyderabad. Knowing I was going to be in India during the wedding, Naveen very kindly invited me to attend the wedding. What an honour! Venu will look after me during my visit as Naveen will be busy attending to familial duties.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
The Indian Experience - India "Light" in Bengaluru
Bangalore, Thursday 9th October 2008
Prior to arriving in India I read and was warned about the constant hassling by hawkers and beggars. Thankfully this is apparently less of a problem in the south of the country than up north. Our first full day in Bengaluru was a public holiday which lessened the crowds a little as well. It is difficult to ignore one's instincts when a legless child is tapping you and pointing to his mouth and tummy, but if you took pity on even one poor soul who asked you for money it would be impossible to move from the spot as you would be mobbed. Bengaluru has been a gentle introduction to India. It has been quite easy to get accustomed to society here. Thankfully I think I'm made to the right stuff to be a reed that bends with the Indian currents. I'm sure, however, that Delhi and beyond provide a stronger test of surviving in India.
Prior to arriving in India I read and was warned about the constant hassling by hawkers and beggars. Thankfully this is apparently less of a problem in the south of the country than up north. Our first full day in Bengaluru was a public holiday which lessened the crowds a little as well. It is difficult to ignore one's instincts when a legless child is tapping you and pointing to his mouth and tummy, but if you took pity on even one poor soul who asked you for money it would be impossible to move from the spot as you would be mobbed. Bengaluru has been a gentle introduction to India. It has been quite easy to get accustomed to society here. Thankfully I think I'm made to the right stuff to be a reed that bends with the Indian currents. I'm sure, however, that Delhi and beyond provide a stronger test of surviving in India.
Cricket – Day 1 at Bangalore
Bangalore, Thursday 9th October 2008
Take two Aussie boys wearing Indian flag headbands and with Indian flags painted on their cheeks, not to mention a large Indian flag they are carrying, drop them into the middle of Bengaluru on the first day of the first test match and you have an interesting social experiment. It is either a perfectly acceptable custom to stare in India and we received our share. Reactions ranged from amusement to bemusement. I think the Aussie fans were a bit unsure of what to make of it as well. I guess we may have been seen as walking a fine line between being unpatriotic Australians and taking the piss out of the Indians. One thing for sure is that when you are dealing with a national flag you are dealing with imbued emotion. The reality and point of whole thing, from our perspective, is it is all about getting into the spirit of cricket and having fun while being respectful. When it boils down to it I would rather see good cricket than see one side or the other win.
Take two Aussie boys wearing Indian flag headbands and with Indian flags painted on their cheeks, not to mention a large Indian flag they are carrying, drop them into the middle of Bengaluru on the first day of the first test match and you have an interesting social experiment. It is either a perfectly acceptable custom to stare in India and we received our share. Reactions ranged from amusement to bemusement. I think the Aussie fans were a bit unsure of what to make of it as well. I guess we may have been seen as walking a fine line between being unpatriotic Australians and taking the piss out of the Indians. One thing for sure is that when you are dealing with a national flag you are dealing with imbued emotion. The reality and point of whole thing, from our perspective, is it is all about getting into the spirit of cricket and having fun while being respectful. When it boils down to it I would rather see good cricket than see one side or the other win.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Footloose – A Slice of Culture
Bangalore, Wednesday 8th October 2008
There are clubs in Bangalore which play dance and rock music. But don't think about dancing to it; that would be illegal!
Quintessential India
Bangalore, Wednesday 8th October 2008
Picture this scene in your mind. It's the day before the start of the test match series. Adjacent to the M. Chinnaswamy stadium in Bengaluru is a patchy grass and red dirt area the size of half a dozen soccer pitches. On the side closest to the ground hundreds of police officers are being briefed for their security detail during the match. Next to this scene are 50 or more young teenage boys boisterously engaging in 3 separate games of cricket with overlapping fields of play (a scene not dissimilar to what you might see in the schoolyard of any cricket playing nation). To the right is a main road choked with dissonant traffic. Further around a cow is grazing and appears to be blissfully unaware of the surrounding chaotic activity. Adam and arrive to this scene with our guitar in hand. We find a grassy spot on the fringe of the action and start working up a rendition of The Beatles "With a Little Help from My Friends". Within seconds we are surrounded by a dozen or more curious youngsters. As they realise we are rehearsing the same song over and over they slowly disperse. Satisfied we have nailed our arrangement of the song; we wander over to one of the games of cricket and join in the fun. Our guitar and other possessions become part of the structure that serves as the stumps at the bowlers end. The kids graciously let Adam and I have a bat and bowl an over each. Cricket, crowds, chaos and cows - a slice of India given a western twist by our presence.
Picture this scene in your mind. It's the day before the start of the test match series. Adjacent to the M. Chinnaswamy stadium in Bengaluru is a patchy grass and red dirt area the size of half a dozen soccer pitches. On the side closest to the ground hundreds of police officers are being briefed for their security detail during the match. Next to this scene are 50 or more young teenage boys boisterously engaging in 3 separate games of cricket with overlapping fields of play (a scene not dissimilar to what you might see in the schoolyard of any cricket playing nation). To the right is a main road choked with dissonant traffic. Further around a cow is grazing and appears to be blissfully unaware of the surrounding chaotic activity. Adam and arrive to this scene with our guitar in hand. We find a grassy spot on the fringe of the action and start working up a rendition of The Beatles "With a Little Help from My Friends". Within seconds we are surrounded by a dozen or more curious youngsters. As they realise we are rehearsing the same song over and over they slowly disperse. Satisfied we have nailed our arrangement of the song; we wander over to one of the games of cricket and join in the fun. Our guitar and other possessions become part of the structure that serves as the stumps at the bowlers end. The kids graciously let Adam and I have a bat and bowl an over each. Cricket, crowds, chaos and cows - a slice of India given a western twist by our presence.
Attire Part 1
It's fair to say that the women-folk go to some trouble with their clothing. Beautiful fabrics, vibrant colours, and various glittering adornments are de rigeur here in Bengaluru (Bangalore). The men, however, need to take a good hard look at themselves! It's as if they pick a shirt, slacks and a pair of shoes while blindfolded in the morning. They have no regard for style, colour, cut or proportion. Now I may be culturally naive here, but if I was a female here i would like men to wear more traditional garb as they clearly don't have an eye for western style dressing.
Food and Beverage - Beer
Bangalore, Wednesday 8th October 2008
The beer is Kingfisher and is commonly found in 650ml long necks. Supermarket price in Bengaluru is about 50 cents a bottle. The bottles can be clear, green or brown. That is because the bottles are recycled here. By recycled, I mean refilled. It's not a bad drop. It's a lager and suits the food well.
The beer is Kingfisher and is commonly found in 650ml long necks. Supermarket price in Bengaluru is about 50 cents a bottle. The bottles can be clear, green or brown. That is because the bottles are recycled here. By recycled, I mean refilled. It's not a bad drop. It's a lager and suits the food well.
Travelling Minstrels
Bangalore, Wednesday 8th October 2008
Prior to leaving Australia Adam and I purchased a Martin Backpacker Guitar. It doesn't play particularly well and doesn't amuse ourselves during those hours spent waiting for transport and, more importantly, will serve to bring people together, both locals and tourist, in having some fun.
Prior to leaving Australia Adam and I purchased a Martin Backpacker Guitar. It doesn't play particularly well and doesn't amuse ourselves during those hours spent waiting for transport and, more importantly, will serve to bring people together, both locals and tourist, in having some fun.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Travel by Car
Bangalore, Tuesday 7th October 2008
Driving in Bengaluru is akin to riding the dodgem cars at Luna park. Flashing high beams and horns are far more important in signalling one's presence and intention than turn signal indicators. The only rule appears to be give way to whatever is in front you. Riding in a 5 door compact "taxi" from the airport to our hotel at around midnight was an interesting experience. Enormous truck with no lights appeared quickly in front of us forcing our driver to constantly swerve to scythe his way through the traffic. Seatbelts are fitted to vehicles but appear to be for decoration only. On smaller city streets and inter-city arterial roads lanes marking are to be used as a guide only. Indians, like Australians, drive on the left hand side if the road in right hand drive vehicles, but the similarities end about there. Feel free to use any part of the road you wish to get you from A to B over here. Three and four-wide overtaking manoeuvres which result in a near game of "chicken" with the on-coming traffic are common. I have been told that professional drivers (driving taxis you can hire for multiple hours or days) are extremely skilled. They only seem like maniacs with a death-wish to westerners!
Bengaluru (Bangalore) - Tuesday 7th October to Friday 10th October 2008
Bangalore, 7th October 2008
First stop in India is the city of Bangalore, located in the south of the county in the state of Karnataka. Bengaluru is a "garden city", know for its' IT industry, food, shopping, insane traffic and choking pollution. I will attending the first test match in the series between India and Australia here
First stop in India is the city of Bangalore, located in the south of the county in the state of Karnataka. Bengaluru is a "garden city", know for its' IT industry, food, shopping, insane traffic and choking pollution. I will attending the first test match in the series between India and Australia here
Introduction
It has been an ambition of mine to travel to India for many years. My interest was initially piqued by my first experience of eating lamb vindaloo at a local Indian restaurant in my home town of Melbourne. After further Indian eatery experiences, Indian fare soon became my favourite cuisine. Combine this with my passion for the game of cricket and I came to the conclusion that if Indian folk and I shared a love of the same food and sport then it would be worthwhile learning more about incredible India and its' people.
Fast forward 10 years and my ambition is being realised. Over the next five weeks a great adventure will unfold as I travel through the subcontinent to watch the Australian cricket team take on India in a series of four test matches. (I will be attending the first three test matches in Bangalore, Chandigarh and Delhi). I will also have the privilege of attending a Hindu wedding near Hyderabad through the kind invitation of an Indian work colleague back home. Add to this a tour of the north and north-west of the country and I hope to return enriched by the cultural experience, not to mention fattened up somewhat through indulging the bone-fide regional Indian food from the cities and towns I visit along the way.
Accompanying me on the journey will be my close friends Adam and Sue. Adam will commence the tour with me and Sue, his partner, will join us a couple of weeks later. We will spend most of the time together but we will also split and rejoin each other on occasions as we pursue our own Indian odysseys.
I will attempt to update this blog regularly as I go. It will serve two purposes. Firstly, as a keepsake diary of my travels and, secondly, to allow those close to me to follow my journey. Blogging is the modern equivalent of the postcard, only instant and interactive! In addition to a chronological travelogue approach to my writing I will attempt to work through themes and individual experiences along the way. I hope you enjoy the read. Please feel free to post comment and question and I will happily answer them.
* Update Friday 24th October 2008 - due to a scarcity of decent Internet connections and spending most of my time having a ball over here I am quite a bit behind updating this blog. I will, however, keep at it during my journey and catch up when I return to Australia
Fast forward 10 years and my ambition is being realised. Over the next five weeks a great adventure will unfold as I travel through the subcontinent to watch the Australian cricket team take on India in a series of four test matches. (I will be attending the first three test matches in Bangalore, Chandigarh and Delhi). I will also have the privilege of attending a Hindu wedding near Hyderabad through the kind invitation of an Indian work colleague back home. Add to this a tour of the north and north-west of the country and I hope to return enriched by the cultural experience, not to mention fattened up somewhat through indulging the bone-fide regional Indian food from the cities and towns I visit along the way.
Accompanying me on the journey will be my close friends Adam and Sue. Adam will commence the tour with me and Sue, his partner, will join us a couple of weeks later. We will spend most of the time together but we will also split and rejoin each other on occasions as we pursue our own Indian odysseys.
I will attempt to update this blog regularly as I go. It will serve two purposes. Firstly, as a keepsake diary of my travels and, secondly, to allow those close to me to follow my journey. Blogging is the modern equivalent of the postcard, only instant and interactive! In addition to a chronological travelogue approach to my writing I will attempt to work through themes and individual experiences along the way. I hope you enjoy the read. Please feel free to post comment and question and I will happily answer them.
* Update Friday 24th October 2008 - due to a scarcity of decent Internet connections and spending most of my time having a ball over here I am quite a bit behind updating this blog. I will, however, keep at it during my journey and catch up when I return to Australia
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